FEELING PARCHED OR PECKISH? 

Fuel up for a day of exploring everything St Albans has to offer at Hatch n Christopher Place (think hearty brunch buns, loaded waffles and burgers), George St Canteen (where breakfast is served ’til 4pm), or Megan’s at the Old Bell (an all-day café in a gorgeous converted pub) on Chequer Street. 

Coffee purists will appreciate the speciality brews at Nkora in the Market Place, (it’s also insta catnip for hipsters – check out our guide to the most instagrammable coffee shops) and you’ll find Shakshuka eggs and avo in abundance at Street Cafeon Catherine Street (currently closed for renovation, but make a note to pay a visit when it reopens). 

If it’s the weekend, you could go all out with The Ivy on Verulum Road for indulgent Eggs Benny. Or grab a coffee and pastry to-go at Inn on the Park followed by a leisurely amble around Verulamium Park. 

Finally, don’t miss The Hub on Verulam – a slick members’ club (although you don’t have to be a member to visit), with a co-working and events space, The Open Kitchen restaurant for coffee to cocktails, and stylish cinema rooms. 

 

CHECK OUT THE LOCAL HISTORY

St Albans has cobbled streets galore and it’s a great blend of old and new. The Clock Tower (the only surviving medieval town belfry in England) was built opposite the Abbey in 1405 as a symbol of defiance against the Abbot of St Albans – top tip: be sure you’re comfortable with small spaces before attempting the Medieval stairs! 

And of course, a trip to St Albans wouldn’t be complete without visiting the Cathedral. There you’ll find the Shrine of St Alban and the longest nave in England (you might recognise parts of if you were glued to The Crown on Netflix). Book the Cathedral’s Tower Tour for the full tourist experience, and remember to look up: the ceilings, mosaics and stained glass are stunning. There are tonnes of events and exhibitions held here throughout the year too, so check what’s on before you visit in case you need to book ahead. 

And if history’s your thing, pop in to the Verulamium Museum which is built on the site of the old Roman town and houses golden coins, intricate plasters and mosaics.

Fancy a breath of fresh air? You’ll find 100 acres to explore at Verulamium Park, which takes in a lake, part of the River Ver, and is also home to The Hypocaust, an impressive Roman mosaic and feat of ancient engineering, which is now housed in a modern building, with free entry to visitors.

 

SHOP ‘TIL YOU DROP

If markets are your thing, the Charter Market (earliest known date sometime in the 9th century) runs the length of St Peter’s Street, with street food at one end and fresh produce and crafts at the other. There’s also a Farmer’s Market on the second Sunday of each month and the brilliant monthly St Albans Vintage and Antiques Market.

Also on St Peter’s Street is the newly opened Zoohause, (which you might already know from Woburn), with gorgeously curated homewares. And for boutiques and antiques shops, head to French Row, a parade of medieval shops leading to the wide high street, and George Street, as well as in the Village Arcade, across from the Clock Tower, where independents rule.

If you’re looking for gifts, head for Holywell Hill, and visit Muddy Award-winning interiors store, Cositas, an Aladdin’s cave of quirky gifts, stylish interior talking points and pre-loved fashion. Get lost in a book at gorgeous trad book shop (and Muddy Awards Finalist) Books on the Hill. And find gorgeous British designed and vintage pieces at NMRK Jewellery. 

Over on George Street you’ll find women’s fashion boutique Earley’s, and elegant and affordable jewellery at Amalily. Plus you’ll find totally covetable interior design pieces and home furnishings at Emma’s Houseand beautiful blooms at Flower Box.

Dotted amongst the upmarket chain boutiques on the High Street, you’ll find local fave, Raindrops on Roses – one of those gift shops where you can find something for any recipient (last minute bday pressie, anyone?) and all profits go to cancer charities, too. For sartorial style The Dressing Room is absolutely worth a peruse if you’re in the mood to treat yourself, (when aren’t we?!), as is Chloe James, with its cleverly curated clothing and lifestyle offering.

If it’s artisan food and drink you’re after, St Albans has it all. Check out the independent Flagship Wines on Hatfield Road to be spoilt for choice, or the Fleetville Larder further down the same street, with its fabulous selection of cheeses and deli-based delights. Ever heard of a spirits boutique? You have now. Tomoka Spirits Boutique sources spirits, wines and Champagne from independent producers and holds tastings, too. And, a short drive out of town,  Smallford Farm Shop is fab (there’s a café too)

 

DINE OUT IN STYLE

St Albans does preeeetty well when it comes to fine dining and gourmet grub. For a smart casual lunch, there’s Lussmanns – which, if you don’t already know the name, is a collection of Herts-based bistros focusing on sustainably caught fish and other seasonal dishes. The St Alban’s outpost is down a characterful cobbled central street. 

If you fancy something a little more exotic, this year’s Muddy Award Winning Restaurant, Tabure, has a stunning modern Turkish menu. Or if Italian’s more your fare of choice, Per Tutti is an elegant and authentic indie alternative to the usual family-friendly chains. 

Dylan’s The Kings Arms on George St has recently made the UK’s top 100 gastropubs list and is a local gem for a special lunch or dinner. 

Or you could always just head to the bar for a drink before going on to Loft (also on George St) – award-winning contemporary fine dining.

St Albans’ culinary pedigree also extends to the three-AA-rosette-awarded THOMPSON St Albans, run by the eponymous Phil Thompson – who incidentally gained a Michelin star while working with Jean-Christophe Novelli at Auberge du Lac in Welwyn. 

Fancy lunch in the sticks? Only a few miles from the centre of St Albans, the cosy but contemporary – and totally gorgeously located – Prae Wood Arms, is a great call for a pub lunch. 

Meanwhile, a short drive away is Carpenter’s Nursery(and farm shop) which has a fab café – the Potting Shed – grab a capuccino and browse the local produce and plants. Just don’t blame us if your credit card doesn’t get through the gauntlet unscathed. Or, local haunt, Charlie’s on London Road is popular for a caffeine fix (plus you can’t miss their Tiffany blue coffee van at St Albans Station if you’re coming by train.) 

 

TAKE IN SOME CULTURE

If you’re after big name comedians, musicians and events, the Alban Arena is your one-stop shop, but for something more theatrical, there’s The Maltings, which also runs The Roman Open Air Theatre Festival in the summer months, plus the Sandpit Theatre and Abbey Theatre, with performances from local drama companies and touring shows.

If you prefer the big screen, do it in style at St Albans’ independent, vintage cinema, The Odyssey, with its comfy seating and tables for drinkies. You’ll have to book tickets in advance though, as they sell like hotcakes!

Spend an afternoon wandering around the St Albans Museum + Gallery with 2000 years worth of local and worldwide history and contemporary works to explore, over three floors in the former Town Hall. There are regularly changing exhibitions and workshops too. 

Or for something altogether calmer, how about Evensong at the Cathedral? Pop in during the week at 5pm, Saturdays at 4pm or Sunday: 6.30pm.

St Albans has its fair share of galleries too, if you’re into art (or just like things that look nice on the wall!). Gallery Rouge and Clarendon Fine Art both deal in fine contemporary art, while Collective is an artist-run, open-to-all creative hub.

 

HOW ABOUT A DRINK?

We’ve mentioned that St Albans is big on pubs. And there really is everything here, from proper historic ale houses to gorgeously refurbed gastro pubs. Ye Olde Fighting Cocks believed to be Britain’s oldest pub (now there’s a claim to fame!) dates back to the 8th Century – the monks dug tunnels from the Abbey so they could sneak out for a drink without being spotted (cool, huh?!). The Six Bells on St Michael’s St, the Lower Red Lion on Fishpool and St The Verulam on Lower Dagnall St offer more of the trad pub scene too. For a more contemporary vibe, check out Alban’s Well on St Peter’s Street.

Meanwhile, The Plough – a country gastro pub in the quiet (and very appropriately named) Sleapshyde hamlet near St Albans is very much worth the short drive.

At the crafty end of things, what about cheese, wine and craft beer bar-cum-deli, Bishops Cave on Holywell Hill. Try a wine tasting at Must Wine Bar on trendy George Street or head to The Snug for cocktails, craft beer, wine and grub, which has tranformed the historic Fleur De Lys on French Row into a hip but cosy, contemporary space. And if you like craft beer, the local brewery’s bar, Mad Squirrel Tap, on the High St is a must-visit. 

If it’s more of a party vibe you’re after, check out Gatsby-inspired bar, Punchin’ Palooka. 

 

AND FOR THE KIDS…?

School project on the Romans? No problem! Kids can get right in on the action here and bring it to live at the Verulamium Museum. There are also tonnes of workshops and museum hunts and story telling events here and at the St Albans Museum + Gallery.

Head to Verulamium Park to check out the wildlife on the lake, children’s play area and spash park (summer only). 

And if they’ve been good, treat them (and yourself) to something from dessert-lovers’ heaven, The Pudding Stop, on Verulam Road, where you’ll find everything from custard tarts to crumbles. Or an ice cream from Darlish [closed for the winter months but reopens in Spring] in Christopher Place – locally made Persian ice cream in intriguing flavour combos with baklava or Turkish delight on the side.

Where to stay…

If you fancy making a weekend of it (even if it is only a short drive from home – don’t worry, we won’t tell!) hang your hat in one of the lovely local boutique hotels for the night. St Michael’s Manor on Fishpool Street, possibly the most beautiful residential street in St Albans (*gets on RightMove immediately*), is proper swanky if you fancy a treat (and why not?!). 

Torrington Hall is a grand red brick pile on the oh-so-convenient Holywell Hill with views of the Cathedral no less. The serviced apartments are elegant and spacious, with clean, modern décor and tea and coffee facilities (although no breakfast – good excuse to check out the local offerings!) 

If it’s a pub with rooms you’re after, try the White Hart Hotel with its dreamy beams and Tudor frontage, or the smart, rustic Colney Fox, just on the outskirts of town. 

And the gorgeous Sopwell House is just a short drive out of town with its luxurious spa, Cottonmill and pan-Asian restuarant, Omboo.